Las Rutas

Mexico is a place where often, there are no rules or structure and everything works despite this fact. Case in point is Cuernavaca´s bus system - Las Rutas.
In Cuernavaca there is no published brochure or onlinle information with detailed route maps or pickup times. You simply learn how to get where you need to go by good old-fashioned communication. You might ask the neighborhood laundry washerwoman, fellow bus riders, or even the Ruta driver! Most people here in this large city of 350,000 (as cited in http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cuernavaca)are very ¨amable¨ (polite). Several properly designated bus stops dot the landscape along the city´s most travelled arteries. Buses are frequent here so no one looks pressed for time. Curiously, you must use non-verbal cues to signal a ruta driver to pull over. If your agile enough you may even hop on a bus in the middle of the street if traffic is at a standstill. As you approach your destination be sure to signal the bus driver that you are ready to get off the bus by the use of non-verbal cues such as standing or by simply shouting, ¨la parada por favor¨. Rutas don't typically have a buzzer like most US buses.
Rutas are very economical and get you where you want to cost at a cost of 5.50 pesos, about $0.50 USD. But, be forewarned that Rutas are not for the faint of heart. Mexican drivers are notoriously aggressive and make amazing use of side mirror to help them maneuver in and out of lanes. Anything goes here, and aggressive driving is a must if you are to survive on the road.

Ruta drivers communicate with others with frequent beeps of their horns or sometimes they ´holler´at their buddy as they pass a nearby ruta driver.

US-style safety does not appear to be a concern here as there are no seatbelts on the rutas, most are converted VW buses with a few seats bolted down.
If rutas are not for you then you can hail a cab for about 2 USD. But, somehow ruta´s are more of an adventure. Just hold on!!

What´s the deal with race?

I have been in Mexico for just under two weeks and I am still greeted with the question everybody back home always wants to know, ¨so, what race are you?¨ I used to think that the question of race was one that white Americans were overconcerned with but it seems that Mexicans are too. Even mexicanos it seems have stereotypes about mexicanos.


I was at a party in Cuernavaca last night and it wasn´t enough to speak Spanish and have a Spanish name but the question was asked by a mexican national: so, what are you other than mexican, really? I stated simply that Mexico was a nation of mixed racial heritage and that any Mexicano or child of Mexicanos could potentially have African, Indigenous, European or Asian heritage. What ensued was a discussion about what most likely be my racial asignation for the evening. People it seems really trip on this issue. Why is it so important to look ¨Mexican¨ or to act your heritage?

Later that evening, the party had moved to another address and again the question of racial identity came up. This time I was compared to Angelina Jolie or rather a half french Angelina Jolie look-alike. I think I was supposed to be flattering. Anyway, after I stated this time that I was every woman (meaning all races) another discussion ensued about my racial asignation for the evening. I have always been annoyed with people´s curiosity about my racial identity. It gets tiring to hear the same questions and it makes me wonder what the big deal about race and identity really is.

Beautiful Building

 

in Mexico City

Hola a todos. I began my journey at the SFO International Airport. Being the rule follower that I am I arrived the required 2 hours ahead of time at SFO only to be delayed by SF´s famous fog. I am the first to arrive at terminal 1 and I am engrossed in reading one of my Spanish language books so I can prepare to think, read, and eat in Spanish. Offin the distance, I keep hearing the annoying laugher of three aging frat boys who seems to be the only ones who think they are funny. Garfieldesque, I recall thinking that as long as i don´t sit next to them it will all be fine. Guess, who got to sit across from them on the plane? Yours truly of course. Good thing I invested in ear plugs - great tip Julie.

Arrived in hot as hell Cabo San Lucas and had to run about 10 minutes to another terminal across the way. Picture me in red backpack, REI shorts, and puffy red face cursing at why Mexican airports did not have arrows to point the way. I am so Americana that way. Good thing I spoke the language. What a mess!! The strained look on my face said it all. I board the flight and all appears well.



Finally, I arrive in Mexico City to find that my luggage has not arrived. My luggage is coming tomorrow. **Update, it has not as of this post. Luckily, I followed one of the numerous tips of travel advice and packed a day pack in a seperate bag. Anyway. I am tired as hell but glad to be here. >The cab driver was here and offered me many helpful tips. DF is beautiful. It is SO not what I expected. Mexico has an amazing history.